Issue 1: Kenya

Jumbo! The word “Jumbo” means “Hullo”! This was the first greeting I received after spending almost two days transiting and flying to Nairobi (Kenya Capital). I used to hear people telling me they took three or more days to travel from Point A to Point B via flight, train or car. I thought that is pretty impossible. Sometimes, I am really thankful Singapore is a flying hub. While Singapore can fly directly to New York within a span of 18hours, it is not simple to sign your name at certain remote areas of the planet.

I arrived 16hours late at Nairobi airport due to some technical fault of Malaysia Airline. The flight from KL to Johannesburg was delayed for 11hours. This led to me missing the flight from South Africa to Kenya. Finally, I understand why one of the flight magazines suggested,” If you are straddled in a foreign airport, pray that it is Singapore Changi Airport.” Sleeping at Johannesburg airport wasn’t easy.

David’s brother, James, met me at Kenya airport. He was full of zest and started explaining to me about the Kenyan people lifestyle. He told me all the vans painted with a horizontal yellow strip are called the “Ma-ta-tu” (Ma-ta-tu means thirty cents). These are the public transport for most Kenyan since the 1960s when it only cost 30cents then. However Ma-ta-tu would normally race on roads, making the roads very unsafe. There is this common saying in Kenya “Ma-ta-tu Ma-ta-ta”, meaning “the vans are troubles or worries”.

While I was late, the schedule for Mount Kenya continued. I started the trek the day I touched down. That was pretty tiring for me as I’ve not been sleeping well for the last 48hours. The journey from Nairobi to Nanyuki (Central Highland) bypassing Karatina (one of the largest open markets at East Africa) was pretty interesting. We bypassed coffee, corn, french bean, sugar cane, cabbage plantations, not forgetting the many police road blocks along the way.

While we were at the Equator, James highlighted an interesting phenomenon!
How can one determine if you are standing at the Northern or Southern Hemisphere?
James said when one turn on the tap, water turn clockwise down the sink if you are at Southern Hemisphere, anti-clockwise at Northern Hemisphere. How do you think water would flow on Equator?

Singapore, Choon Wee and me, met Kenya at Nanyuki. My guide (Peter), Cook (Moses) and Porter (Joseph) made a fast purchase, and started the trek at about 1:45pm from Mount Kenya National Park Sirimon Gate at 2600m ASL. The walk to Old Moses Camp was slow as the altitude was above 2500m. This is an altitude that human may start having altitude sickness. I am happy with the pace as I have enough time to see some wild baboons along the track. After about three hours, it started drizzling. Low cloud hindered distance viewing. Another twenty minutes passed, Peter made a right turn into a small trail and we saw Old Moses Camp in no time.

It was dark soon and dinner was served promptly. I am very pleased with Old Moses Camp, there are beds with mattresses, and toilet with flush system, if U need drinking water there is a tap in the hut. However, there is no flag pole!! I would love to raise a white flag if not white underwear to my cook! Well… dinner began with a plate filled with pop corns and biscuit, main dish was potato, veggie and meat which covered almost 99% of the plate. No meal was completed without fruits! I crawled into the sleeping bag to massage my poor stomach after the outrageously sumptuous meal.

In the morning, I witnessed some of the best toilet view at Old Moses, the sky was cleared while Batian (Highest Point of Mount Kenya, Africa second highest peak at 5199m ASL) and Nelion unveiled themselves. I took a few photo shots before checking my rectum clear. Day two is a slightly longer walk. We started at about 0715hrs, I enjoyed the gradual 900m ascent with flora that we don’t get to in tropical Singapore. While looking at the slopes of the valley, I found distinct difference in the density of plants. With knowledge imparted from “Singapore Best Climbing Instructor”, Mr Lim Kim Boon, I started wondering the amount of sunlight each side of the valley receive over the seasons.

Before reaching Shiptons Camp at 1600hrs, I saw some “Possum”!! Oh… these little “Possum” look alike creatures are actually called “Rock Hyrax” or “Dassie”. These mammals are not related to the marsupial family. An adult hyrax is about 45-60cm long, and the closest relative is actually elephant.

I spend two nights at Shiptons, the first night was bad as I could not adapt well to 4200m ASL suddenly. The headache effect wear off fast on the second day after an acclimatisation walk (3hours return) was done to Hauseberg Col, 4700m ASL.

“Summit” push was done on day three (second night at Shiptons). Traditionally, a lot of summit push (especially High Mountains) is done in wee hour. This is probably because of safety. Doing summit push at night is easier as rock, snow and ice are held together by water defrost during the day. It is also nice to see sun rise after a hard climb. Anyway, the summit climb from Shiptons took about three hours. Many tried to find Kilimanjaro which is located at about 360 - 380km south of Mount Kenya. It was said that viewing the “Roof of Africa” from Point Lenana (Tourist Summit of Mount Kenya at 4985m ASL) is possible on a clear day. Obviously, the day was not too clear when I summit.

Peter, Joseph, Choon Wee and me began the descent after spending an hour at Point Lenana, at about 7:15am. Moses who did not summit was not lazing, he actually prepared a light breakfast before the ascent and another breakfast when we return to Shiptons Camp. The team began the walk down at about 10:30am. The air was dense and moist, lusty green vegetation give me a feel of richer oxygen. I felt stronger as I descent. I reached Old Moses with Moses and Joseph at about 4pm. Choon Wee and Peter arrived 30minutes later. I am pretty glad the rain missed me by minutes. We had another night at Old Moses Camp.

Tipping is an integral part of a good trek. Choon Wee and me forked out USD50 each for the support crew. I would like to express my appreciation to the cook, Moses. He took good care of my Osprey Aether 60, backpack, throughout the trip. One bad thing about him… he over fed me during all the dinners! The desire for food continued when I reached Nairobi where Choon Wee and me proceeded to a restaurant, the Carnivore. As the name suggested, Carnivore is a place for meat only. I tasted camel meat for the first time. The crocodile died in peace when I told him the person who prepared the food, cooked it with effort.

Kenya shall remain another possible destination for me. I would love to visit the Samburu National Park which is some 90km, direct bearing, from Mount Kenya National Park. Safari at the NP would be fantastic, this is one of the best places to see thousands of wildebeest, zebras, other veggies and maybe some lions!